I wanted to go to Sheki and visit an American Fulbright English Teaching Associate. Getting around Azerbaijan was a little hard to figure out at first. I called a hotel to make reservations and the receptionist did not speak any English. It has been a little difficult to make sense of the train and bus schedules. So, I called my Azerbaijani friend, Nurlan, and asked him to join us, and then rented a car for the long weekend. Driving in Azerbaijan is pretty good. Sheki is a historic former center on the ancient Silk road and is nestled right up against the Caucasus mountains. The drive took me closer to 6 hours to get to our first stop.

Stopped along the way for some fast food. Gutab is a a staple in Azerbaijan, it is thinner than a typical tortilla and is filled with meat, cheese, or a mixture of fresh green herbs. I aksed to take this picture and a friends of hers from across the road yelled “I’m telling your husband.” Which thanks to Nurlan’s translating, gave us all a laugh. We made it to our very cool accommodations on day 2.

This is the actual door to our Caravan accommodations. Built in the 1700’s it accommodated traders as well as their goods and animals. While a little rustic, we stayed in a historic inn on the silk road. The receptionist told Nurlan that Azerbaijanis don’t stay their much, but foreigners love the place. Below is the entrance on the other side of the door and then the inner courtyard.

Our suite had 3 rooms and felt a little historic. We arrived in this beautiful area in mud season. The snow was gone and yet to be replaced by leaves or flowers. I would really like to see Sheki in a better season.

Nurlan is a 19 year old Marketing student at the university where I teach. We met at a local restaurant and struck up a conversation. Nurlan is surprisingly knowledgeable about history and speaks great English from living in Toronto, Canada. This is the view from the Caravansarai’s front door. Below, we are at the Sheki Khan’s Palace.

The first picture is part of the compound and directly above is the exterior wall of the palace with (mostly original) great stained glass windows and ornate painting covering every wall inside and out. The palace isn’t big, but was very colorful and ornate.

This Christian church from 100 CE may be one of my favorite stops in Azerbaijan so far. Again, we had an excellent Azerbaijani guide explain the site to us in great English. I believe it is called an Apostolic church because it was founded or visited by a very early follower of Jesus. Here is the UNESCO link for Sheki and the Church in Kis. https://en.unesco.org/silkroad/content/sheki-significant-city-crossroads-historic-silk-roads-inscribed-unescos-world-heritage-list#:~:text=Whilst%20the%20Upper%20and%20Lower,stay%20overnight%20in%20the%20city.

We met up with Sohini who knows where to eat well in Sheki. Sohini was working teaching English over the weekend, but pointed us in the right directions and met us for two lovely dinners. We travel with Sohini and Nurlan again to Gobustan the next month. Below is a neat dish, Piti, where you start by pouring the rich stew broth over bread before continuing with the lamb stew in the same bowl.

It has been great meeting people doing really interesting work in Azerbaijan. I am really happy that Evie has gotten to meet and interact with these recent college graduates who are out adventuring and participating in cross-cultural exchanges.